Common Issues

This is normally the washing machine door seal.
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This can be one of 4 main faults. washing machine door seal. washing machine pump is leaking. washing machine has a split hose. washing machine drum leaking this could be the bearings. see repair guide.
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The problem here is the pressure switch is not operating correctly, this can have a number of causes, either the switch is faulty, there is a hole in the pressure pipe or it has come off, or the most common reason is the pressure chamber is blocked. To check the switch you have to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks, if you hear them it's usually fine, a close inspection of the hose should tell if it is OK, where as the chamber has to be removed and washed out to clear it.
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For the machine to keep filling it would indicate that there is a siphoning problem. Check the outlet hose is not running along the ground or too far down the stanchion pipe, it has to rise up then loop back down or the water will just run straight down the drain. If the problem only happens after the first pump out it would indicate the end of the outlet hose is lower than the drum or there is no air break around the outlet hose. (The stand pipe should be larger in diameter than the hose from the machine).
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Unless you have a cold fill only machine, the powder is washed down by hot water, so if it is not, then the hot valve is not working or you have low water pressure to the appliance. The hot water pipes tend to kink after a time and this prevents water from passing, or it could be scale from the hot tank clogging the filter in the solenoid (this occurs if work has been done on the plumbing recently), the other possibility is the solenoid valve could be faulty.
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Check the heater connections or thermostat also the connections on the timer, Also check the heating element.
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Check the belt on the washing machine, If the motor is not turning at all, the obvious culprits are the motor brushes, but if these are OK and it has a spin module this could be the fault.
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If the machine stops on the rinse cycle every time it would indicate that the cold valve is faulty or your cold water supply is not getting through to the machine.
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This can be the pump or if you can hear the pump running then there is a blockage, either in the sump or the outlet hose there could also be a blockage on the sink unit if the washing machine is plumbed into it.
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There is an item of clothing wedged between the inner and outer drum, possibly a sock or Childs cloths as they are small.
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The most common cause is PCB (printed cuirct board) or this is the pressure chamber being blocked.
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The problem is the Tacho Generator on the motor is faulty or come off, some times the screw holding it on has just come undone and it has fallen off or the outer casing has come adrift.
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A scrapping noise when the drum rotates is more often than not caused by a a coin or bra wire coming adrift and locating itself under the heater.
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If the machine sounds normal on the wash but starts to get very loud when it comes to the spin, the chances are one of the balance weights are loose or the bearings are worn.
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This is another case of the machine jumping out of its suspension. There are a number of reasons why this would happen.
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This type of electrical feedback is caused by not having a good earth on your washing machine.
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Check Drum for damage.The most obvious reason that clothing gets torn is if the drum is over loaded or there are sharp objects in evidence such as zips or metal attachments to garments but there could be damage to drum.
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This could be the interlock fault or It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual.
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If the fan is running and the thermostat light comes on but you get no heat (or just the thermostat light on in non-fan ovens and cookers) then the probability is that the fan element or oven elements have failed.
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First things first, check the electricity supply and make sure it is okay.
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Normally this is a simple thermostat failure which would manifest itself as this symptom.
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Normally this will be faulty hinges or the hinge runners.
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Normally this will be faulty hinges or the hinge runners.
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This is an overheating problem which can be caused by the main oven thermostat or a faulty safety thermostat that will be causing the problem. It can also be caused by a failure of the cooling fan, where fitted, but usually these go noisy before failing, Safety thermostats are used to prevent the oven or cooker overheating and will shut the oven down.
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The fan motor and cooling fan motor are the most obvious causes where fitted.
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This is a cool down period and can vary massively from appliance to appliance but if it stays running then you normally have thermostat fault or sensor fault.
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Normally this is simply a case of replacing the bulb.
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This would usually indicate that the grill element is faulty. Check these Grill element Oven changeover switch Overheat thermostat Main oven thermostat, if used to regulate the grill temperature.
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Invariably spillage except on a new installation or when a new element is fitted.
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The timer has been activated, possibly when the controls were cleaned. There are so many types of timers used that it would not be possible to go through every one, but if you have the instruction booklet, that will tell you how to turn it off. Normally it is just a case of pressing a button or turning a control knob.
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This is normally an element that has gone to earth, Well known fault with electric ovens, the insulation breaks down in the elements and trips the RCD , best way is to stick a meter on each element and check they not got earth leaks on them. But can also be a wiring fault.
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This is normally the element, or a thermostat in the machine.
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Belt has snapped or the motor has stopped working this can also be the capacitor on the motor.
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The most common reason for this is that the condenser filter is blocked and needs to be cleaned, usually by placing it under a running tap or hose. Another cause would be if the appliance were in a confined space such as a small cupboard with the door closed (there would not be sufficient air flow to allow the condenser system to work properly.
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Thermostats in the machine are not working correctly.
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Depending on where the noise is coming from determines what you should be looking for. If the noise is at the rear then it could be the drum rubbing on the cabinet the rear bearing has worn, the other possibility is the fan on the motor is snagging on something, If the noise is from the front it could be dirt or grit on the edge of the front plate (where the bearing pads are) or the bearing pads may be worn. Some tumble driers have tension pulleys that keep the belt taught.
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Bulb or tube has failed, starter has failed, switch not working or faulty PCB Printed cuirct board.
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If you get poor airflow or extraction from your cooker hood it is far more likely to be an issue with the vent to the outside or a simple case of the filters being blocked.
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Control switch or PCB: this controls the speed of the motor.
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This is normally the moor or the fan blade has gone out of balance, this is sometimes caused by the blade warping from too much heat.
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This is almost certainly caused by the hole inside at the rear of the fridge being blocked. This hole is situated at the bottom of the gully and lets the water from the evaporator run through to the dissipater at the back when the unit goes into defrost.
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The most likely cause for this is the insulation in the freezer cabinet has broken down.
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The most likely cause for this is an ice blockage, and the easy way to tell is if you open the freezer door but keep the fridge door closed you should hear the motor running, if so the easy fix is just to turn the whole thing off for about 3 days and it will clear itself. if it happens again you might have a defrot heater fault.
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The first thing to check is the power supply. You could have an open circuit on the thermostat or the PTC may be open circuit or have a bad connection. It may just be the ambient temperature is too low (That is the outside temperature is lower than the setting on the thermostat) or it may be the compressor is faulty.
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It could be that the compressor is seized, or you may have a blockage in the system. The PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) which is used as a start device for the compressor, may be faulty.
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